Saturday, April 14, 2012

Pussy Willows

Being spring, the 'pussy willows' are out in force. For a while I wondered what the words referred to, now I understand it is the flowers of whatever tree type it is that puts them out. They vary quite a lot between species, these red branched bushes of about 3 metres height produce these particularly nice looking ones.

It is fairly common to see them used as 'flower' arrangements in homes in Alberta. That's where these ones ended up.

South Cooking Lake

This view is over the South Cooking Lake. Apparently the area under reeds was once beneath its waters. I noticed evidence of old wharfing structures 'high' up from the present water line, so would tend to believe it.

Sadly, besides receding, I understand that the waters have become polluted with industrial wastes to the extent that it is not really safe to swim in any more. At least, that is what the Camp Van Es proprietors think so they have organised an indoor pool.

Not sure whether to blame the lawyers or the factories. Maybe both?

Lakeview

After leaving Camrose we headed back to Edmonton via Camp Van Es, a Moravian campsite. These days it's generally for youth, but in past days families and young adults also had some very memorable occasions there. Like many of these things, those who attended all seem to source many of their happiest moments in and around the camp.

Nearby is the 'hamlet' of Lakeview, looking over the Southern Cooking Lake. This is a view from the old lakebed (it's receded) towards the boat shed.

Friday, April 13, 2012

CLBI

This is where my parents first met. Apparently there wasn't a lot obviously between them unless one had eyes to see or ears to hear. It is the Canadian Lutheran Bible Institute. Apparently there's nothing quite like it in Australia. Here in Canada it is still going strong.

House

This house is fairly typical of homes in the area where I had lunch. A streetscape of buildings like this is quite attractive.

Finches

Retreating from the withering gaze of my avian friend, I enjoyed a good lunch. So did these guys, in one of the bird feeders outside. I am told they are 'finches', though they appear a bit different from what we call 'finches' at home.

Hungry Bird

We got to the town of Camrose and soon had caught up with the lady we had come to see in her second floor apartment (3rd floor in Canadienese). She was a non smoker so I went out onto her balcony for a smoke prior to a late lunch.

Watching me intently from a tall tree a few metres away was this little bugger. Quite colourful, he was obviously upset that I was on 'his' balcony, preventing him from lunching on his own food in the bird feeders our friend kept there for him and his kind. I don't know what type of bird he is.

Snow Geese

We pulled off the road so as to admire the thousands of birds as they wheeled above and did what geese do. I managed to catch a few of them in flight. I'm not sure if we are viewing a mixed group of Canada and Snow Geese, or if the dark one's are just another colouration of the snow geese.

We weren't the only ones to pull over and watch them for a while. For which I am glad, as it made me feel less like a 'tourist'.

Goose Lake

The day before yesterday went out to Camrose for an afternoon. As we approached a distant bend in the highway I could see a huge flock of birds wheeling in the distance. As the kilometres crawled by, they defined themselves into what I was told were snow geese. There were literally thousands of them.

They were congregating in and around one of the large temporary bodies of water that form at this time of year from snow melt and rain. Here's a small section of the 'lake'.

Woodland

This view is into the woodlands that border the town of Innisfail. This is one row of houses from where my cousin leaves in (sub)urban comfort. These woods are used by deer to lie up in, and the occasional moose (or so I have been told), especially when the weather is bad. On the evening I visited there was a mix of light snow and rain falling, so I did not venture into them.

The homes that border these woods have left their backyards open to them. I think that exemplifies much of the Canadian attitude towards those that share the natural world with us. Something to be learned by us aussies!

Fields

This was probably my last view of rural Canada not from the interior of a vehicle. I love the countryside I've seen so far, no where near as flat as the term 'prairie' would suggest. Also the fact that, at least where I've been, remnant native scrub has been left intact in patches and copses throughout the land, not entirely determined by gullies and slews but also by a sense of aesthetics and wildlife habitat responsibilities.

I wish Albertan farmers all the best in these tough times.

Field Edge

After a most delicious pizza at Innisfail's 'Mountain View Pizza Parlour' I went for a brief walk through the snow for the sheer pleasure of it. I soon found myself at the edge of town.

Backyard

I caught a bus to Red Deer, and then a lift to Innisfail to spend the night with my cousin and his wife. They live in typical rural/suburbia, about half hour from nearest major centre at Red Deer. This is their backyard.

In summer they spend a deal of time 'on the deck' with the fire pit. Just out of picture to the right is soil used for vegies then. The pond in foreground is a floating block of ice at the moment. It snowed all evening.

Final Dawn in Oiltown

This was the view from the fourth floor at Dawn yesterday, the day I left Edmonton on final extended leg of my travels. The school busses and garbage trucks were out and about and the traffic hadn't yet built up to its usual intensity.

By later in the day it had started to snow, but I was on the bus to Red Deer by then.

1945 House

Here's another picture of the clan house in 1945. Note the colours, as opposed to the plain white that it is today.

House and Essex

This picutre was taken of the clan residence back in 1945. Note the different front entry way to the present arrangement, and the large chimney stack. Although the windows have been changed, all else appears much as it does today.

The car in the corner is an Essex (no details known). The blonde girl is, apparently, my mother.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Photo - church and school

Here's another picture of Deep Creek School, this time the original building. It is the two pictures at the bottom of the set (Bruderheim Church is shown above). The school is shown front and back. Although a secular institution, it is interesting to note the cross. I believe the old school was replaced with the modern one in the mid forties.

My uncle taught there for five years. He was kicking around at the farm between jobs (trained, but unemployed) when the school's supervisor arrived at the front door asking for him, asking him to take the position. Apparently it all came as a bit of a surprise to my uncle. He took the gig and never looked back.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Moose

My relatives were happy that I had seen a bison, so we were doubly surprised to have some elk pass in front of us on the road (no photo). I was quite content with the natural beauty of the place, the animals were a bonus. I said that about the only thing I still really wanted to see, but certainly didn't expect to, was a Moose. My uncle said, 'look up ahead,' at that point. Guess what we saw in the fading light! She was a cow, and casually strolled across the road and up the rise to graze on some bark she took a fancy to. At her size, she wasn't too concerned about us. Absolutely fantastic!

Big Bison

We hadn't seen any of the famed Bison by the time we had passed right through the park and the sun was about to set. So we drove up the Yellowhead Hwy a short while to see the Ukranian Village that exists there and then returned to through the park.

It wasn't long and we saw these buggers, part of a larger group grazing near the roadside on the edge of the woods. I believe they are 'Wood Bison', as opposed to the 'Plains Bison' who occupy another area of the Park. They are big.

Island and Lake

Apart from the angle, this is close to what it looked like when we arrived at the central lake on the upland plateau. We passed a squirrel or two on the way (no photo) and numerous small bodies of water in various states of frozenness. Almost all of these smaller meres had a resident Beaver dam in their centre, a pile of logs and sticks built up out of the water, one per mere. Methinks Beavers aren't friendly neighbors.

The Island seen here is one of a couple in the centre of the large lake. There are camp grounds and a golf course further around and out of sight. Although the thermometer wasn't too cold, the wind made it as cold as it looks to take this shot. There were small fish shoaling around the edge of the ice.

Elk Island National Park

5km off the highway we entered the National Park. We had a park pass that allowed free entry, but there was no one collecting so not needed. Within a couple weeks the park will be blooming and start to crowd with campers and day trippers from Edmonton but we had it almost entirely to ourselves.

Quite large, it is on an upland and is site of forest and open woodland, with large areas of both seasonal and permanent water. It has a 'light pollution protection zone' around it and thus is reasonably safe from encroachments.

Whitetails

In the evening my Aunt and Uncle had a prior engagement cancelled on them and offered to take me to nearby Elk Island National Park. So, after a quik meal (it was already evening) we headed out.

We hadn't even reached the highway when, out in the fields, we could see a small herd of deer. Stopping the car for a quick photo I noticed that they were watching us as intently as we them. It was only on viewing the picture I learnt they were White Tailed Deer. Check out their ears!

Beaver Creek Beaver

On my farm walk with Chelsea the Dog I followed Beaver Creek for much of the way. 30 years ago it was heavily wooded. Now it appears a wasteland, primarily due the Beavers. Ironic.

Frozen for much of its length, I wasn't expecting to see a beaver in Beaver Creek. However, we startled one that was sunning itself. I was alerted by the splash it made diving into the creek. While Chelsea tried to work out what had happened, I looked up near the bend. Guess who I saw?

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Sun rake

This image is of part of a machine that had been put out to pasture at the back of the cow paddock. A number of wheels such as this, attached to upright arms, create a startlingly geometric sight. What they 'really' are are rotating rakes which, when powered by a tractor's drive chain, gather two swathes of cut straw into one prior to it being gathered up for later feeding to the beef (and, eventually, you (if you eat cow)).

Farming Oil

Again, this Albertan farm conveys the dichotomy in the provincial economy through sights such as this oil pump. They dot the land on parts hereabouts, grinding away 24-7. To me, they look like steel dinosaurs grazing - or is that the greeny in me having a go at our petrol based economy with its still essentially 19th century technologies?

Either way, the cows don't seem to mind, nor do the farmers.

Dog on Horse

Just in case you think it's all hard work, check out this. Young Chelsea (a six year old cross jack russel) takes a moment out of her duties to hitch a ride on one of her equestrian mates, also taking a moment out from the more serious business of eating.

Lest you wonder, they both really enjoyed the experience!

Deerland

This front end loader tractor with its pick up tines is being used here to transport long and fiddly bits of fencing materials and tools to and from the fencing site out towards the back of the farm.

It is being driven by a fifteen year old who is more than competent at what he is doing, while his dad supervises the load.

Barn

This red farm building, decorated in similar fashion to the granaries I've previously featured, is a barn for animal housing. It is on a property which is mixed cattle/grain production, on a smaller scale to the ranch at Armena.

Well worn, it is not a museum piece and is part of a working farm.

Easter Sunset

As the temperature dived back below zero I stood in some awe as the sun dipped finally beneath the prairie and the land went quiet. A fantastic day filled with community and adventure found its finale in a spectacular sunset of oranges and reds.

After a final sharing of food and stories, it was time for the trek home. A great time had been had by all.

Canadian Geese

The Canadian Goose is ubiquitous on the prairie country at this time of year. When I arrived several weeks ago, they were also arriving in their ones and twos. At the ranch, however, they were gathering in their hundreds (if not thousands) in the wetlands surrounding.

These three were part of a much larger flock that entertained me on my little stroll. There's a protected breeding ground for them adjoining the home yard, which my cousins see as a brilliant bonus to living here.

Silent Partners

With the level of technological sophistication on the ranch it came somewhat of a surprise to me to learn that horses are still relied upon as working animals. Everything from rounding up and boundary riding to pulling heavy loads (which is what these two guys do for a living).

A good side effect of these practices is that the cattle country is keen on its rodeos, where the skills and aptitudes of rider and animal can be pitted against others. The ranchers travel long distances to compete.

Big Things

Next to the Hay Cart is this snow plough. You can see that the scale of things here are pretty big. As you'd expect on a ranch.

Actually, it's not a snow plough, just a tractor with baloon style tyres which has a dozer blade. The baloon tyres are to reduce the effect of compacting the soil for such a heavy machine, an important part of the 'no-till' method of farming (the ranch is not pure cattle, it relies on grain production for both cattle feed and for income).

Hay Cart

I don't know if it is still used, but this old bus has been converted to a hay cart. I'm sure their are witty ways of looking at this, but I'm too tired at the moment to think of them.

In any event, the picture is strong enough of itself.

Keep your city ...

This poster overlooks the 'conference' table out back of the tack room near the stables where all the big decisions regarding the running of the ranch are taken by the members of the partnership. Besides the political message in itself, I found it quite interesting as an example of the Canadian approach to politics generally.
At least in Alberta and British Columbia it seems that everyone, regardless of age, gender or political persuasion has a grave distrust of government and a willingness to dissent, regardless of who is in power. This applies more to federal, less to provincial, and least to county governments, but is evident throughout. A healthy state indeed for a democracy.
The cattlemen are no different.

Big House on the Prairie

On Easter Sunday I went out to the cousin's big house on the prairie, about an hour's drive from here (Bruderheim). As you can see, we weren't the only ones that made the pilgrimage into cattle country, nor the only ones with a 'truck' (4WD / 4x4 / SUV). Everything here was on a big scale, not just the ranch. The house was beautiful and, despite its size, a lovely home for the family that lives here.

The sense of community was my biggest impression. Hard to catch on film.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Samuel's Place

This run down place incorporates the original home built by my great grandfather, Samuel, upon his arrival in the area. The first year he and his family lived in a peat hut while he built a two room house (the bottom floor in the rearward part of the present building). My grandfather was 2 years old on arrival.

A friend of the family later died from smoke inhalation from a kitchen fire after she saved three children on the upper floor. Her name was Nina, and the children lived into their nineties.

Refined

This image counterbalances the nostalgia with a bit of modern day refinery. It is but a small part of the plant that has sprung up within the last 15 years in the area nearby the farm as transnational global oil has moved in to take advantage of compulsory acquisition and the huge boom in energy extraction Alberta is presently experiencing. For miles around they have bought out and cleared farms, totally removing all trace of the previous inhabitants and their histories. In fifty years, when the machinery goes, I doubt even the memories will remain.

Advance Rumley Ideal

This rather bizarre looking piece of machinery is the counterpart to the Rumley tractor (see previous posts below). In around 1927 the Rumley company made it available to my grandfather with a no-interest loan in recognition of the good work he was doing in the area with his tractor of theirs. It was towed on site by the tractor, and was then driven through a belt system by the tractor's engine as it stripped the harvest of many of the farms in the immediate area. It is still in operating condition and can be seen occasionally at tractor pull events in Alberta. There aren't many left after 90 years.

Deep Creek School

About a mile from the old farm is this school house, which was in use as such from 1895 to 1960 (it is presently used as a private residence). An uncle taught here for five years, grades 1-7 and about 30 kids. Most of my aunts and uncles went to school here as students (some under the tutelage of their brother!) including my mother. She also worked as a school janitor for a period, walking through the harsh prairie winter in the predawn to light the furnace before the kids arrived.

Mason Piano

This piano was purchased at a cost of great sacrifice by my grandmother and those who helped her, back in the thirties. It is without a doubt the most magnificent upright piano I have had the pleasure of playing - extremely responsive to the touch and as resonant as a grand piano (almost) without the tinnyness that often goes with that.

I understand that it was in use from dusk to dawn with her brood, and at least a couple concert grade musicians came of age on it.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Prairie Sunset

The sun dipped below the horizon as I was about to pass through the gap in the hedge to my Uncle and Aunt's home. This was perfect timing as I had said that I'd be back at sunset.

Due the lowlying land and the pools and meres I hadn't been able to get through to one of the significant patches of scrub that have been retained, which was kind of a pity but, on the other hand, allowed me to time my return to the minute. I think my relatives were impressed with my sense of coincidence.

Dusk

This beautiful view was taken in the gathering dusk as the sun dipped low and I approached the house yard after my circumnavigation of the original block of land. It is another snow melt. Clearly visible are the farm sheds and the trees which surround the houses.

If the colours convey the impression of 'cold', that is an accurate impression as it was just dipping below 0'C at this point of my walk.

Home from the Hill

This picture was taken from the farthest corner of the original block of land. It is also the highest point, and am looking down across the fields to the farm yard and its associated buildings and houses. I am probably 750m away from them.

The fields are direct drilled (no-till seeding) these days, with a major emphasis on minimising soil disturbance and resultant soil erosion. The stubble was from before winter. This land was all cleared by my grandfather or his descendants. Virgin bush lies behind and to right of the photographer.

Field Walk

I walked around the original 'quarter' of land on the home farm yesterday evening. Although the fields looked level from the highway, when walking them one realises the level of undulation is reasonably high. This, of course, implies that there are depressions in the land into which the melting snow feeds its waters. These snowmelts can be in surprising places, such as here where I mounted what I thought was a crest to be greeted by a large pool of standing water. The sight of the last season's stubble implies that the area was sown, and thus is not a permanent feature.